Wednesday, March 29, 2017

Continued from Cowboy Experience


THE MOUNTAINS AND MORE ADVENTURE



Bright and early, like every other morning, I was up and drinking coffee around the campfire.  It had rained a little over night and, yes, my saddle was dry and I was so proud.  Of course, the cowboy way is not to brag about the fact I was smart, but to just go on and enjoy the benefit of my wisdom.  Everyone saddled up and the cows were driven down to the water for another drink.  We had about 10 miles to go and it was a climb.  As we got on the trail we found that the cows were much harder to work.  They didn’t want to climb and they were trying to spread out on the trail and go sideways.  We had our work cut out for us. 

We entered the pines and were greeted by what we thought was a snowstorm.  It was an unbelievable sight of millions of Millers, or what we call, moths.  The air was filled with them flying all about.  It did seem like a snowstorm in that the visibility was decreased and you buttoned up your cloths to keep them out of your cloths.  First amazement and then laughter as we rode through this natural wonder of nature.  Even the cowboys were amazed at the sight.  Just one of those days when our trail and nature crossed paths.  I’ll never forget the feeling of true nature and the knowledge that it takes place all over, weather we notice it or not.  Take a look!

This was very different riding than the previous days down on the gently rolling foothills.  You found yourself leaning forward against the grade, weaving in and out of the pine trees chasing strays, ducking the pine boughs and running into spider webs between the trees.  All in a day’s work!  The mountain flowers were spectacular in all colors.  In places it was like a carpet of flowers.  I was riding along with Gary and he told me why all of the blooms on the flowers were so small.  They were no bigger than a dime and in most cases smaller.  Gary said the reason is that the growing season is so short and nutrients in the mountain soil are less than at lower altitudes so the evolution of plants have created a smaller bloom to take less energy of the plant.  WOW!  So many new thoughts and experiences. 

It wasn’t all straight up or all wooded.  There were clearings and places where we would drop down into little valleys before going up the next slope.  We were constantly stopping to rest the cows and horses.  With all the riding back and forth we were doing, we were riding much further than the cows were walking.  You really have to keep after the cows to keep them going.  Gravity was working against you.  Passing through an area where it was steep on both sides of us and the cows were strung out over a half mile of trail we entered into a clearing that was a valley or notch, as the cowboys called it, with a wonderful lake that practically filled the whole level area of the clearing.  I was riding up near the head of the herd at the time and rode ahead to take a look at the clear beauty of the lake.  Again I was inspired and awed at the sight and the feeling of the beauty.  It’s one of those feelings I won’t try to describe.  You have to feel it for yourself and will forever be at a loss if you don’t. 

While horseback along the shore of the clear lake I could see that the lake was real steep along the edge and deep.  I was again amazed as the cows crowded along the edge of the lake to get a drink and yet didn’t step in, somehow knowing it wasn’t a lake they could walk into, like the lake the day before. 

The chuck wagon was further up the trail along the lake with lunch of sandwiches and chips.  We ate and laid out on the grass for an hour or more.  The temperature had been cool since we left camp and hadn’t warmed up any since we were gaining altitude.  The sky was a dark blue and the sun was strong and warm on our faces as we laid in the wild flowers.

THE END OF THE DRIVE



It was easy to round up the herd after lunch.  They were grazing on the green grass all around the lake and were too tired to wonder far.  Just a couple more hours and we would reach the summer pasture high in the mountains.  After leaving the lake we actually went downhill for a bit into another valley.  That got the cows moving again and the valley extended for a while so the pace was like that on the open prairies below.  Everyone was excited to see and arrive at the upper lodge.  Showers, rest, clean clothes, chairs, doors, lights, all the conveniences of home.  One more climb was all that was left between the herd and the upper lodge.  There were more areas of open space than that of tree covered since we were reaching an altitude of around 10,000 feet.  The tree line where there are no more trees above that point is around 10,500-11,000 feet in that area.  The air was cool and fresh.  You could tell there was less oxygen in the air because the horses were breathing harder and I was developing a headache.  Earl had said we might have a headache the first day on the mountain. 

As we crested the next hill we could see yet another long valley with very high peaks on one side and steep lower peaks on the other.  It didn’t look like there was any way out of the valley except the way we were entering.  About two thirds the way down the valley, say three miles, we could see what looked like a lodge or some buildings in the trees next to a creek.  The valley floor was a rich green field of grass with trees only on the west side along the creek known as Rock Creek.  It was a spectacular view.  We took the cattle only a quarter mile or so farther and Earl said, “let’em go and let’s head to the lodge”.  Because of the supply of good grass and water the cows and calves would stay in this general area until the fall round-up in late August, early September.  It is amazing to me that you just let 350 cows and calves wonder around for a couple of months.  Earl said the cows don’t have any desire to go anywhere when there is a supply of food and water as well as other cattle. 

The drive was officially over and the cows were at summer pasture.  We had mixed emotions as we left the herd even though we wanted to get cleaned up.  We felt a kind of responsibility for the herd after three days of constant contact with a goal to succeed in a task we had no idea how to do.  It was a great feeling of satisfaction and accomplishment.  I felt like a new person who had finally connected with some inner self who needed this outdoor test.  I know that sounds like some old hippie out of the sixties trying to find himself but I did need to answer some questions for myself.  This experience opened some doors for me and closed a few.  I knew it was time to be proactive instead of reactive to life and proceed with vigor. 


THE UPPER LODGE



The herd behind us we gathered to ride into the upper lodge like any other group of drovers heading into town for Saturday night.  It was a time to enjoy the view and reflect on our accomplishment.  Rock Creek was running fast with snow melt and could be heard throughout the valley as it ran over and through the rocky, river bed.  Riding close to the creek we could see how clear it was.  The creek was only a couple of feet deep on most places with some pools that were three or four feet deep.  That is where the best fishing was to be found.  As we got closer to the lodge the horses sensed the end of the trail and were getting frisky to get on to the end.  Some of the horses were even hard to hold back from running the rest of the way.  Gary called these horses barn sour and he wanted us to hold up the horses so they wouldn’t get into the bad habit of thinking they were in command of the rider.  Barn sour means they want to get to the corral or barn as fast as possible because they know there is food, water, rest and unsaddling.  A well trained horse won’t be tempted by this and will be easier to control.  The corral for our horses was on the valley side of the creek and the lodge was on the mountain side of the creek built into the mountain side among the trees.  A beautiful setting. 

We all unsaddled our horses and instead of leaving them in the corral we were told to let them go in the valley.  The horses had been there before and were going to graze in the good grass and drink out of the creek like the cows were.  A couple of horses are always kept in the corral so someone can saddle up to ride out and round up the horses when needed.  It seemed like everything was new learning.  All of the situations were unlike anything I had ever experienced before.  What’s most surprising is that everything made such good sense.  Practicality in life. 

The upper lodge was an exact duplicate of the lower lodge layout except that there were no bunk houses.  Instead there were five large canvas tents on wood, deck like, platforms that each had two log twin beds and a small wood stove.  One end opened up and they had a cozy feeling I loved.  The supports in the tent were logs and the canvas had been pre-made to fit with a small smoke stack opening for the wood stove.  I wanted to sleep in one of the tents and not the lodge.  I think most of the guests wanted the lodge rooms to be close to everything including the shower houses.  I preferred to be out away from the rest as much as possible.  Eddie was my roommate and the view out the tent was of Rock Creek and across the valley to the mountains on the other side.  There is an original log cabin dating back to the turn of the century with dirt floors and one small window, I guess to keep the bears and cold out, which is used by Earl and Edna.  There are also two teepees right down on the creeks edge that can be used by anyone who wants to.  A bit too primitive for me after the two nights on the trail.  Top priority for everyone was a shower and rest.  It was about 3:30pm and supper wasn’t until 6pm so we had plenty of time to settle in. 

The shower felt great and the facilities were really nice.  The upper lodge was only about three years old.  There is no electricity to the lodge so all of the lights, water heater, and cooking is propane gas.  Even the refrigerator is gas.  I had never seen one before or for that matter even imagined one existed.  So many new things.  After my shower I looked around the place and enjoyed standing by the creek for a while imagining living in country like this, with all the hardships of life. 

I came upon a chilling box that was real interesting.  There was a pipe that came out of the hill side from a spring.  The water was real cold, probably in the 40’s, that ran into a large wooden box through a hole at the top of the box.  On the opposite side of the box is another hole slightly lower than the entry hole where the water ran out of the box and down to the creek.  This chilling box had a continuous flow of cold water running through it and the canned and bottled drinks were kept plenty cold.  It is very important in this country to make use of what is provided.  I walked across the small footbridge to the corral side of the creek to see what the horses were doing. They were spread out over the valley grazing and a couple were rolling over to scratch their backs where the saddles were.  It was very relaxing at the upper lodge with no phones, TV’s or radios, and nothing to do for the next two days but enjoy ourselves.

Dinner was fried chicken, mashed potatoes and gravy, green beans, fresh breads, pies, and drinks.  The food was so good and the pies were wonderful.  My favorite was blueberry.  We ate our fill and most of us ended up on the front porch of the lodge.  There is a porch swing and picnic tables, overlooking the creek and valley floor.  There were a couple of mule deer grazing with the horses and all was peaceful.  The stories were being told and they were already beginning to grow and be exaggerated.  That seems to be a western tradition.  We were a happy group and looking forward to rest and short rides out from the lodge to sight see the next two days. 


About 9pm Gary, Earl and Edna were getting a campfire started out front of the lodge and folks gathered around.  There were guitars and banjos and I had my harmonica.  I really don’t know how to play it but have an ear for the key.  I had learned Red River Valley and played that over and over along the drive.  My friend Eddie had coined a new name for me in a sort of Indian tradition, “One Song” because I only knew one song.  It was a great time of singing and storytelling.  The New York City cops had stories to tell that could go on forever.  They seemed to always be a center of conversation.  I guess we were all interested in their amazing stories.  Maybe the western tradition of storytelling is universal.  The stars were bright and the air was cool. 

The campfire broke up and we headed off for a great night’s sleep.  I knew it was going to get cold and had some firewood ready for the wood stove in our tent.  Eddie and I went to bed without starting the fire thinking we would have to get up and get it started later in the night.  It was July but above 10,000 feet it could get cold.  Sometime in the night I got up to get the fire started and loaded the small stove with wood and started it.  Back to bed I went and before long we were both awaken by the heat.  I had over filled the stove and the heat was driving us out.  We got up and flung open the entire end of the tent to the stars and chill of the night.  It felt great and we had to laugh.  As we stood in the open end of the tent our front side was cold and our rears were hot.  One of those stories and a great laugh for everyone the next morning.  The night was beautiful and we were glad we were up to see and feel it.
  
DAY ONE AT THE UPPER LODGE
   



Up early I walked along the creek and watched the deer in the valley.  Breakfast wasn’t to be served till 8 AM.  I was up early so I didn’t miss anything.  I could sleep at home.  The creek was so clear and you could see small fish swimming in the deeper pools.  The temperature was in the high 30’s and the dry air felt great with a fresh pine smell in the air.  I was wearing a T-shirt, long sleeve canvas shirt, corduroy vest, scarf and cowboy hat so I was warm.  You would be surprised how much warmth the hat provides.  Of course, wranglers, boots and belt with silver buckle completed the ensemble.  There was no wind and the sun was lighting the sky but had not risen over the mountains on the other side of the valley.  I walked out to the corrals and said hi to the horses in the corral.  It was so peaceful and the sky was clear. 

Back in the lodge people were stirring around and I was ready for my first cup of coffee.  Breakfast was on of pancakes, eggs, bacon, fruit, and toast.  The day was to be what you made it.  You could stay in camp and rest, write, throw horse shoes, fish Rock Creek, or you could go out with Gary for a ride to a waterfall and on to the Washakie Needles peak. 

Earl asked for a couple of volunteers to go back out to the cows to make sure they had all mothered-up.  Mothered-up means that all of the calves had found there moms.  If a calf was lost from its mother it could die.  If the mother cow doesn’t find it’s calf it will go back to the last place it feed the calf which might be in this case back down the mountain.  I volunteered because I wanted to do as much real ranch work as possible.  Earl took three of us since most of the guests didn’t care if they saw a cow again for a while.  As I had said they only keep a couple of horses in the upper lodge corral so I asked if I could saddle up and go get the other horses for the rest of us to ride.  Earl said I was a glutton for punishment and said sure.  I saddled up a horse and headed out to get a few horses and especially my horse Split Ear.  It wasn’t much work but was a lot of fun.  I found Split Ear and a few other horses in a group and got behind them and they started to walk toward the corral.  No wonder!  Earl was rattling a can of oats and all of the horses within earshot started for the corral.  I had a good one pulled on me.  That’s the way it is around cowboys, they’ll let you walk right into a setup.  All in fun, and I got Split Ear saddled to ride off with Earl. 

It was a slow pace this morning because there was no rush to do anything.  That’s also part of ranch life and I liked it.  We walked the horses the couple of miles back to the cows and they were a quiet bunch.  Grazing and spread out over a mile or so of hillside they were staying pretty close to the creek.  Since it was quiet and no calves were calling for their mothers it seemed clear that all was well with the herd.  Earl let us ride around where ever we wanted to in that large meadow and he rode over to a ledge overlooking the creek.  What a peaceful day.  There was an old shack down along the creek and Earl said there used to be a cowboy that spent the summers up here watching the herds when larger numbers of cows were up here.  I tried to imagine what it might be like spending the summer up here with your only responsibility being to make sure cows didn’t wonder off too far if the grass started to be depleted and look for any sick cows that might need doctor’in.  Earl said the cowboy was usually fishing or sleeping.  Sounds like a dream life for one summer.  After an hour or so sitting on the ledge overlooking the creek with Earl and listening to stories he told about his days in the west we headed back to the lodge.  It was about lunch time and I was ready for some more blueberry pie.

After lunch of elk sandwiches, chips and, of course, blueberry pie, Gary was going to take a short ride up to a waterfall for those who wanted.  I thought that would be great since I wanted to be in the saddle as much as possible.  Only about six of us went and it didn’t matter to Gary how many went because he enjoyed the ride to.  You would think the cowboys wouldn’t ride all of the time but, that is what they do and would rather be horseback than anything else.  Well, almost anything else.  We took off and headed up the valley and it was a climb.  I was surprised at how much we climbed.  We had to let the horses rest often due to the lack of oxygen in the air.  The views were awesome, the flowers were everywhere and you hated to step on them.  It was still cool but the summer sun was strong and you could feel the heat against your skin.  On our ride to the falls we gained at least 800 feet and the view down the valley was spectacular.  Gary told us to hobble, ground tie, or tie our horses to a bush or small tree.  To ground tie means to just drop the rains of the horse on the ground if you are sure they won’t run off. 

We walked into the base of the falls since the trail was too steep and rocky for the horses.  What a sight!  It must have been a 100 foot waterfall.  The volume of water going over the falls was smaller than that of Rock Creek would eventually flow into Rock Creek.  It was very cold water and, no wonder, it was snow that morning before it melted and ran over the falls.  We were near the top and close to patches of snow left from the winter.  Not far from the base of the falls was a spot undercut into the cliff that had a large snow drift in it.  It was about thirty feet high and melting.   We all tasted the cold water and enjoyed drinking out of a creek.  It isn’t safe to drink out of most creeks these days, especially at lower altitudes, due to the number of cows that walk in the creeks and leave waste in them.  At this altitude we were safe. 

Back down the trail to the horses to find four of the horses were gone.  We knew they had wondered off and Split Ear was there so I rode off to find the horses.  They weren’t far and I was proud that I had tied my horse to stay put.  We had a great afternoon ride and enjoyed each other’s company.  On the way back to the lodge we all split up to make our own way back to the lodge and that gave us all a sense of independence and allowed us to feel the vastness of the country without the distraction of others.  The feelings I had were all so new and so exciting.  I knew I had to have more of this and I wasn’t quite sure what I would do to get it. 

On my ride back I took my time and followed the creek toward the lodge.  Part way back I ran across Tom, the retired old-timer, fly fishing in Rock Creek.  He was having a wonderful time finding his peace and quiet.  We all had a different idea of what our great adventure would be.  He had caught a couple cutthroat trout and had released them back into the stream.  A terrific day for us all.  I continued back to the lodge and came across Bobbie and Eddie, the cops, trying to throw hatchets at an old stump.  I stayed clear of those guys and headed back to the corral.  I let Split Ear out to graze and headed for the showers.  Sunset comes early when you are down in a valley high in the mountains.  It doesn’t get dark any earlier than normal but the sun goes behind the large mountain peaks early in the evening.  When the suns not shinning on you it starts to cool off.  Coats were going to be in order around the campfire this night. 

Another spectacular meal of lamb, pork, boiled potatoes, beans, and the complement of pies and cookies.  I fell in love with the blueberry pies and Janette kept them coming.  We were a big family by now, everyone was rested from the cattle drive and it looked like the campfire would be a busy place.  After supper a group of us headed down to the area near the tents where there were some posts sticking up out of the ground.  We had a roping contest.  It was a lot of fun and none of us were any good, but we had a chance to work down supper before the campfire gathering.  Always something to do, or nothing to do, whatever you wanted.  There was a lot of laughter and friendliness which is sometimes rare these days. 

The campfire was roaring and the benches were filling when I got there.  Earl was playing his guitar and Debbie was playing the banjo.  Debbie is the lady from Boston who owns a music store.  I brought my harmonica and could hear Eddie requesting “one song”.  “OK” and I played Red River Valley.  About then Edna came down from the lodge in an authentic Indian dress with beads and feathers.  Edna had done all the bead work and the designs were of flowers and ornate patterns.  The dress was deer skin and full length.  She sang, what I would call an Indian chant. What a surprise and a joy.  Such a great evening around the fire, singing, and telling more stories.  The boys from New York had stories for every occasion.  What a night of fun and friendship. 
  
DAY TWO AT THE UPPER LODGE



Up at dawn and coffee was on already.  I must be slip’in. This was the last full day on the mountain and I was going to the Needles, Washakie Needles that is, one of the highest peaks in Wyoming.  I helped gather horses and the group would include about eight riders, led by Gary.  Another clear cool day and the group was anxious for an early start.  The group that had gone up to the Needles the day before loved the trip and saw lots of wild life.  Small lunches were packed, and we were off.  It was a steep climb in places and some of us weren’t sure the horses could manage the climb, they did.  We crossed Rock Creek a couple of times and climbed through a section of dense pines before we broke out above the tree line.  It is amazing to look out across the other peaks and actually see a line where there are no more trees above the line.  We saw an eagle, mule deer, and at one rest stop we saw four elk standing shoulder to shoulder on a ridge several hundred yards away.  We rode the horses across large areas of nothing but small wild flowers.  The vegetation above the tree line is small and sparse.  We rode across snow fields and drank water as it dripped off the snow.  The sky was clear and there was very little wind which Gary said was unusual. We would climb and rest, climb and rest.  The altitude tired the horses.  As we reached the summit of the peak we were on, we could see the Needles peak next to us.  It wasn’t more than a quarter of a mile away and not more than 500 feet higher than we were.  We felt we were on top of the world.  We could see 50-100 miles in all directions.  The earth we live on can make us feel pretty small at times. 

I enjoyed the camaraderie of the friends on the trip.  We had been through a lot in a short time and felt very close to each other.  Walks of life, didn’t enter into the evaluation of each other, we had worked hard that week to accomplish a goal and were equal in everyone’s eyes.  From lawyer to butcher, we all had a great time and enjoyed each other.  I was finding that I am more of a loner.  I enjoy the company and stories of others, yet I need to get off by myself.  As I had taken walks alone, had a tent alone the second night on the trail, rode off occasionally from the herd to be alone and enjoy the setting, sometimes taken my meal and walk outside the lodge or down by the creek alone to eat.  I was usually contemplating my life and the direction I wanted to go in from here.  I had encountered a new life and realized I could change mine if I wanted to.

Riding down the mountain was quite different than riding up.  With the steep downgrade the horses steps created quite a jolt each time their front feet hit the ground.  With each step of the front feet you rock side to side and because we were inexperienced riders we were nervous and at times concerned the horses would fall.  It seemed much steeper going down than coming up the mountain.  As we got down into the trees it didn’t seem as steep but our panoramic views were obstructed and the distance to the ground seemed less.  The trees almost seemed confining in some spots.  Interesting how our perceptions change with new surroundings.  We took a different route down and the terrain was constantly changing.  It was great fun. 

We got back to the lodge mid-afternoon and I was sorry the last full day on the mountain was coming to an end.  I unsaddled Split Ear and decided to walk along the creek before dinner.  The creek was a great place to reflect and a fun place to watch the fish in the deeper pools.  I decided I want to learn fly fishing so I will have an excuse for more trips into the mountains.  The water is so clear and the air so clean.  I found a big rock along the creek where I spent an hour or more.  I knew I wanted more of this country in my life and I wasn’t sure my wife would be interested and furthermore if I was interested in her sharing it with me.  Yes, I was confusing myself with the issues of the outside world and needed to get back to enjoying the mountains and the creek.  I headed back to the lodge to shower for supper. 

Another great supper on the mountain.  I got my last blueberry pie on the mountain and was, in fact, given a whole pie since I loved it so much.  I ate it all that evening.  The campfire was good and the singing was bad.  We had a great time.  I played my one song and helped on others.  It was another clear night and a group walked out into the grassy part of the valley across the creek and looked for constellations.  Tomorrow was to be our choice of either riding back down the mountain to the second night camp or ride all the way back to the ranch in the ranch trucks that had come up with new supplies for the lodge.  I knew I wanted to be horseback if at all possible. 
  
BACK TO THE LOWER LODGE


Another early morning and many were up early in expectation of the end of the mountain experience.  Eddie got up early and got down to Rock Creek to fish before breakfast and had a treat of fresh caught cutthroat trout for breakfast.  They were so fresh and tasty coming out of the ice cold creek.  Indeed a treat.  

I was out to the corral early to see if I could help Earl and Gary.  Earl said to saddle up his horse and round up the horses for everyone to choose how they wanted to get back to the ranch.  I got his horse saddled and rode out.  I was at a gallop across the grassy field when his horse decided to make a quick left turn.  I had no idea what was about to happen and when the horse turned I continued straight into the air turning upside down and landing on my back rolling out into a sitting up position.  I wasn’t hurt but I was surprised and embarrassed.  I still had a hold of the reins and the horse was standing there looking at me.  I got back on and completed the task.  There were only four who wanted to ride down to the second night’s camp to get in some more riding.  All the rest of the guests were going to ride down in the ranch trucks.  They found out they should have ridden horses back down due to the slow pace of the truck and the bumpiness of the trail, and that’s all it was, a bumpy trail. 

Gary knew I wanted to ride and work as much as possible so he asked me if I wanted to help him drive the herd of horses back down to the second night camp, about 14 miles.  From the corral they were going to truck all the horses back to the lower lodge.  I said sure not knowing what I was in for.  He said we would leave ahead of the other riders due to the fact it would be hard to separate the horses from the ones to be ridden if we all left the upper lodge together.  There were 17 horses to be moved and Gary wanted me to help.  I was excited and ready to ride.  We gathered the horses outside the corral after the guests, who wanted to ride down, got their horses.  Gary said to walk our horses slowly behind the herd of horses because if we were to get too close to the horses they would tend to start running.  The horses knew where they were going and were well rested and ready to go.  It was downhill and the horses had no riders.  They must have thought it was a holiday. 

I was wondering lots of things as we started down the valley along Rock Creek.  What would I do when the horses started to run?  Could I keep up?  How would we keep them all together?  Where should I ride?  The excitement was building in me and I was so proud to be asked to help.  Two of us and 17 horses, WOW!  Gary and I were riding behind the herd and off to either side of the herd.  The horses, as with the cows, tend to stay together, thus HERD. 

We headed down the valley toward the spot where we left the cows and many of them were in sight grazing in the good grass on the hillsides staying close to the creek for a constant supply of water.  We were backtracking the same route that we came up on and I knew the way.  We stayed behind the herd walking slowly and in the beginning the horses were content to walk.  Gary and I talked a little and enjoyed the morning.  The first stop would be the deep lake we had lunch by on the last days drive.  The horses would stop to drink so if they did start to run Gary knew they would stop there for a while.  It was only a couple miles to the lake and they did start to run a little but not all in mass.  A few would run ahead and slow down and then others would run to catch up in a sort of playful manor.  It was easy riding for us to the lake stop. 

Gary and I talked and enjoyed the peace and quiet of the mountain lake.  The air was cool and still and the lake was calm.  I bet it would have been good fishing.  The horses drank and were ready to go.  Unlike the cows that had to be driven, the horses have a mind to keep going and they hate to have others get out in front.  There is a competition for the front.  Horses were spinning around and getting very restless so finally a couple headed out down the trail and then we were off.  Everything changed, the horses were off and running together.  We had to take off as well and run our horses full out.  I couldn’t believe it and I heard Gary laughing. 

He knew what we were in for all along and never told me.  Another, cowboy way, of not saying too much and testing the other riders.  I held on and thought only of the job at hand.  I can’t recall any concern of falling or getting hurt.  I was so caught up in the moment and the need to really ride our horses.  We rode in and out of tree covered areas and there was no concern about the horses stopping or leaving the herd.  This was a unified group trying to outdo the other horses.  I have a new concept of the term “herding together”.  There was a point down the trail were we came to the only fence and gate that we encountered. 

With the cows, a rider rode ahead, opened the gate, and the cows proceeded through.  With the horses we were at the rear and just trying to keep up.  When the herd got to the fence they were very uneasy and anxious to get on.  Gary told me to get the gate open and close it behind the herd.  Sounds easy?  First of all the horses were all congested around the gate and it was very difficult to get my horse into the stirring group to get to the gate.  Then I needed to get off of my horse and get the gate open.  No small task I found out.  My horse felt like part of the herd and was unruly and wanted to run with them.  I had to hang on to the reins and get the gate open.  That was the easy part. 

I managed to get the gate open and pulled it back.  I was stampeded as the horses pushed to get through, like a pack of 8 year old kids when the gate to the community pool opens.  I couldn’t believe the pressure the horses had created to get through the gate.  Picture this!  I was standing at the gate with all of the horses milling around behind me, bumping into me and my horse as well as putting pressure on the gate and fence.  It was intimidating as I stood in all this confusion and I ended up wanting through the gate as bad as the horses, but for a different reason.  Off they went and as Gary came through the gate he said “hold on to your horse”.  He was right.  All my horse wanted to do was run with the rest of the horses.  Split Ear was pulling me around as I tried to get the gate closed.  You always leave a gate as you find it and this one was closed.  I thought for a minute I wasn’t going to be able to get it closed and was in a bit of a panic because I didn’t know what I would do.  I tried so hard and finally got the gate to close. 

I was so relieved and yet had Split Ear to deal with.  I thought I was in a rodeo.  Split Ear wanted to run with the herd and I did too but I had to get on.  Round and round we spun.  I would put my foot up to the stirrup and Split Ear was turning to run off.  In desperation I grabbed the saddle horn and jumped.  I threw myself over the horse and into the saddle and off we went.  I got my feet into the stirrups and couldn’t see or hear the herd.  I knew where I was going so at a full out run we headed down the trail.  At small clearings where I knew a shortcut I would cut off a little to try to catch up.  Once, as I was crossing a clearing, Split Ear stepped onto a hole of some sort and went down to one knee for a split second and up again as I saw the ground coming up at me.  It happened so fast I didn’t have time to be scared.  I closed in on the herd and rejoined Gary as we got closer to the corrals at the second night camp. 

It was just about over and I was thrilled, proud, tired, and so thankful for the experience of a lifetime.  I felt like I had really learned how to ride.  I had put in a lot of time in the saddle and had caught on quickly.  We were way ahead of the rest of the group and didn’t have anything to do but enjoy ourselves.  We watered the horses at the water tank and did a little exploring after the horses were put in the corral.  Gary is a great guy and is still a friend of mine.  We shared stories and still do.  He taught me a lot about horses and I was proud to be his friend.  He is what I think of when I think of a COWBOY.

The rest of the riders came into camp a couple of hours later having had a great ride down the mountain.  The trucks with the rest of the guests had arrived just ahead of the riders.  Some of them wished they had ridden horses down since the ride in the truck is rough and dusty.  From the corrals at the second night camp spot everyone took a truck back and all of the horses were trucked from there back to the main ranch.  It was mid-day and the afternoon was to be a trip into the small cow town of Thermopolis.

COWBOYS IN TOWN AFTER THE CATTLE DRIVE



We all piled into the trucks after a short cleanup at the ranch.  Some of the guests were going to the hot springs and some of us were going to the first bar we found.  I was in the bar group and we found MAC’S in downtown Thermopolis.  I could imagine the old days of cowboys going into town after a long cattle drive and tearing up the town.  We had tamer plans when the eight of us entered the bar.  We walked in like we owned the place and the bartender, Mac was happy to see us in the middle of the afternoon.  Looking back on the grand entry I suppose Mac had seen groups like ours before and was just happy to see the revenue walk through the door.  It was a cozy place with a grand old bar of dark wood with a tall back bar that looked like it had been around a while.  The walls were all wood with the brands of the local ranches burnt into them.  The bar was long and narrow with one pool table at the rear and an old pay phone in, what looked like, an old phone booth from England.  Out of context but created an interesting atmosphere. 

There were a couple tables and most of the seating was at the bar.  There was only one other patron at the time we went in and we practically filled the place, if not with bodies we did with sound.  We were loud and played the jukebox loud.  We drank, played pool, and danced to the jukebox.  What a memory of a great group of people.  There was no worry of drinking to a point where we endangered ourselves since none of us had a car.  We did drink a lot of beer and spent the afternoon in the bar.  I enjoyed dancing and had a great partner as we danced away the afternoon.  I learned a new term from one of the locals in the bar.  “Buckle rubbin”, I know you’ve seen the large buckles cowboys wear, well you figure out the rest.  It’s was fun dancing.  By the time we left the place it was 6:00 pm and the bar was full of locals and we were all having a great time.  The drivers came in to get us and it was time to get back to the ranch for the last meal together. 
  
THE BIG BARBECUE AT THE LOWER LODGE


 It was a fun-loving ride back to the ranch for all of us drunks.  We had really gotten wound up and the long drive back to the ranch gave us a chance to sober up a little.  Back at the ranch we all got cleaned up and the cold shower felt great to me.  I needed it for a couple of reasons.  The outside grill was hot and the steaks were on.  It was a feast like all of our meals and we were all hungry.  Everybody was telling their favorite story and the realization that this was the end of the week was starting to hit us all.  We knew we would not ever see each other again, in all likelihood, and it was a bit sad as we had all endured a powerful experience together and would only have our memory of it for the rest of our lives.  We ate outside and enjoyed the views from the lodge.  There was a singing group setting up as we were eating dessert getting ready for the evening dance.  Those of us who had been at the bar were in various states, from hangover, to sleeping in the bunkhouse, to ready to dance some more.  I was ready to dance because I love to dance and the shower made me ready for round two or three or whatever it was.  I felt great.  

After supper the band struck up and the dance was on.  Friends and neighbors from the local area were invited to the dance and it was a fun party.  The local ranchers enjoyed the party.  It had been a long hard week of new experiences for me and I was beginning to feel it.  With a cup of coffee in my hand I was sitting on a bench and wondering what next.  I had a life back east and I have a life in the west.  I know most of the guests will go back home to their way of life and have a great memory of the west yet I didn’t want to go back home.  I knew I wanted to live in the west and learn the ways of westerners.  It was a serious thought that was yet to be answered.  The party ended early because some of the guests had early flights out the next morning.  There were a lot of sad farewells and of course everyone got a list of names and addresses.  Everyone came away from the week with a different reality of the week.  For me, I was dealing with a life changing experience and was confused about the way I would resolve my dilemma.  The West is for me and I want more.





Thanks for reading, hope you enjoyed!

2 comments:

  1. Your best entry yet, Brad! Thank you. I loved reading your adventure!

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